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St Maarten/St Martin
27 July 2008 Newsletter

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ISLAND NEWS


Sunset

Weather: Today's (27 July) sunset will be at 6:45PM. It's about a month past the longest day of the year, when the sunset was at 6:48PM. The change is pretty slow around the solstice. On the right is a shot taken from the balcony of our condo on the winter solstice in 2005. The weather has been about normal for this time of the year, temperatures in the high 80's during the day and high 70's during the night, with 10 to 15 mph breezes. Nonetheless, the humidity is up and the heat index says it will feel like mid 90's even with the breeze. The rains are generally passing showers, not deluges, and rarely last all day. Full moon dates for 2008 are: 16 Aug, 15 Sep, 13 Oct, 13 Nov, and 12 Dec. Here's the local weather forecast from the Weather Underground and here's one from the Weather Channel.   Sunset on the winter solstice, 2005

Orient Beach from Pirate Beach Bar   SXM-Beaches: Here's a shot taken of Orient Beach earlier this year. We were having a fine lunch at Pirate Beach Bar when I stepped onto the beach and took this glorious shot looking north. It's a great place for lunch, especially good for fish, and the conch salad is our favorite. Prices are in dollars and there is a coupon on the website for a bargain on two chairs, two drinks, and an umbrella with the purchase of two lunches. If you don't know where the island's beaches are, visit SXM-Beaches for maps and photos.

Havana Bay   Beach Reading: The August National Geographic had an article on Moscow by novelist Martin Cruz Smith. Shortly before Yeltsin mounted a tank to stop the army insurrection, I was exploring the possibility of opening an office there. That put an end to the exploratory talks. Not much of an SXM connection there, but Martin Cruz Smith is the novelist who writes the Arkady Renko series. His Havana Bay brings Arkady to Cuba, giving an accurate glimpse at one of the largest Caribbean islands, making it excellent beach reading.

Random Wind: Diane reports fair seas and pretty good weather. She welcomes the winner of her first contest, Ed C, and urges everyone to enter the SXM-Info contests for a two for one Paradise Day Sail on Random Wind.

  Random Wind

Construction: Not exactly construction, but if you are building or moving into a new place, Ace Hardware in Cole Bay has almost everything you would want. Unlike hardware stores in the US, they have a second floor with home furnishings. They are on the main road heading from Cole Bay to Marigot, after the now-defunct Food Center and before the fine Grand Marché grocery store and Port de Plaisance.

PDG, also in Cole Bay, is the restaurant supply store. It's open to the public and they have a fantastic selection of finer cooking items. You probably could outfit a kitchen at Ace Hardware, but you could spend more and get better quality at PDG. If you go to the BIG roundabout in Cole Bay and take the road that goes into Cole Bay, it will be on your right.

ginger   Sapphire Beach Club: We have returned to our home in NY. Our condo will be available for rent at $1000 per week from 15 April to December 15, $2000 per week during holiday season (20 Dec until 4 Jan), and $1500 per week at other times. The rental includes about $500 in coupons from several of our website clients. Check the calendar on our website for available dates. Hurricane Special: Any days in September and August for $100. For those of you who wish to sell or rent their week or unit, we have opened up the Sapphire Beach Club website for that purpose. We charge $25 per year. If you wish to rent or sell your unit, send us some text (and $25 to esk@sxm-info.com via Paypal). If you wish to rent or buy a unit without high middleman fees, check out the website. Given the large assessment that Sapphire just levied, there may be a lot of sales. At present, there are 20 sales and/or rentals available directly from owners. Given a 25 to 35% standard rental commission, there should be some bargains in eliminating the middleman and dealing direct.

Travel: All travel to the USA now requires a passport. Life is pretty easy if you allow enough time to renew by mail. All the details can be found at this State Department page.

Diamonds International   Shopping: Diamonds International still has a discount coupon on their website that offers 15% off on any diamond or gemstone jewelry over $300 or 10% off on designer jewelry and watches.

Groceries: We had a cheese course with some Taleggio and Etorki recently. In his Cheese Primer Jenkins says Taleggio is northern Italy's best-kept secret - the most refined and sophisticated of all Italian cheeses. Unfortunately, you will find very little in SXM. We were sure that the Etorki was a brebis, ie a sheep's milk cheese and I posited that it came from the Basque region (because of the "k" in the name). Jenkins says it comes from the western Pyrénées, Basque country. The AOC is Ossau-Iraty but Etorki is the same cheese, vacuum packed and stored at low temperatures to arrest further development. This is done to smooth out the discrepancy between production and consumption and apparently does not harm the quality. We have seen this at US Imports. Jenkins says: "heavenly".   Etorki

Deutz Champagne   Alcohol: A recent Food & Wine had some champagne and sparkling wine ratings. They rated rosé champagnes and found Nicolas Feuillate Brut Rosé to be a bargain (admittedly at $43). We used to get that at Vinissimo in downtown Marigot. They gave a top rating to Ruinart Brut Rosé ($70). This has long been Martha's favorite, although at that price she is operating on long-term memory, ie before my time when she was a chef at one of Saratoga Springs finer restaurants. We currently like the DEUTZ Brut Rosé ($79) for really special occasions and the BELIN Brut Rosé ($38) found at Select Wine Cellar in the Orange Grove Shopping Center. The sparklers that F&W mentioned included a Llorpart Brut Rosé Reserva from the Penedes region of Spain (only $19) and the Friexenet Brut de Noirs (a mere $10). In the US they mentioned Schramsberg's Mirabelle Brut Rosé ($24), Roederer Estates Brut Rosé ($30), and Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pampadour ($42). We've always been partial to Schramsberg but Taittinger owns Domaine Carneros, giving them a leg up on making great sparkling wine. Roederer Estate is owned by Louis Roederer, another famous Champagne house. They also own Deutz.
Nature: This is an adult Brown Pelican floating off Cupecoy Beach. The Browns are the only pelicans that dive into the ocean to catch fish. In doing so, they provide hours of amusement for beachgoers. The adults have white feathers on their head. They will weigh four to ten pounds (2 to 5 kilos) and have a wingspan of six feet (2 meters). Typically they fly in formation skimming the waves until they spot some fish. They then fly up and crash headfirst into the water to scoop up the unsuspecting bit of sushi.   Adult pelican

Small island story: It is a small island, but there are two countries, two phone systems, and two of most everything you would need in an emergency: police, ambulance, fire department, etc. There was a thread on TTOL recently where someone stated that they had lined up a phone from Sharon, the Queen of SXM. We deal with King Bob at Pack Light Rentals, but no matter who you chose you'll get treated like royalty. The question, however, was what numbers should be put on the phone. Here is a compendium of the suggestions:

  Cellphone

Important telephone numbers
Service Dutch side French side
Ambulance 599-542-2111 or 130 or 912 15 or 590-87-86-25
Police/Emergency 599-542-2222 or 911 17 or 590-87-88-33
Gendarmerie N/A 590 87.50.10 or 17
Fire Dept 599-542-6001 or 919 or 120 590-590 87.50.08
Hospital 599-543-1111 or 910 590-590 87.50.08

Money matters

American Express: lost or stolen card, 336/393-1111 (call collect)
lost or stolen checks or check cards, 801/964-6665 (call collect)

Discover Card: 801/902-3100

MasterCard: 636/722-7111 (call collect)

Visa: 410/902-8022 (call collect)

Western Union: DHL Worldwide Express, 00-599/542-3174


SXM-INFO'S CONTESTS


Current Contest - 27 July to 26 October
Caribbean ViewCondo - half price summer rental (May-October)
Azure Guesthouse - seven nights for the price of four
Lagoon Pub Crawl - two for one ticket
Skipjack's - $50 off a dinner for two
Select Wine Cellar - Wine tasting and a bottle of wine
Random Wind - Two for one coupon for the Paradise Day Sail
GCBC Watersports - Two for One snorkel trip to Créole Rock
Peg Leg Pub - $50 off a dinner for two
PassportMD - Six months free service

Previous contest winners:
Caribbean ViewCondo - half price summer rental (May-October) - Lee M
Lagoon Pub Crawl - two for one ticket - Ed C
Skipjack's - $50 off a dinner for two - Joann L
Select Wine Cellar - Wine tasting and a bottle of wine - Lisa & Mark
Random Wind - Two for one coupon for the Paradise Day Sail - Ed C
GCBC Watersports - Two for One snorkel trip to Créole Rock - Jules R
Peg Leg Pub - $50 off a dinner for two - Lisa & Mark
PassportMD - Six months free service - Susan S
Ti Coin Créole - $50 off a dinner for two - Joann L
Marci's MegaGym 2000 - Two weeks gym admission and two mega-shakes - Ed C

Read our rules, visit the websites of these sponsors, find their contest codes, and enter them on our entry form.

One of the rules is that you should enter each contest only once.

Future Contests:

27 July to 26 October
Caribbean ViewCondo - half price summer rental (May-October)
Azure Guesthouse - seven nights for the price of four
Lagoon Pub Crawl - two for one ticket
Skipjack's - $50 off a dinner for two
Select Wine Cellar - Wine tasting and a bottle of wine
Random Wind - Two for one coupon for the Paradise Day Sail
GCBC Watersports - Two for One snorkel trip to Créole Rock
Peg Leg Pub - $50 off a dinner for two
PassportMD - Six months free service

26 October to 28 December
Caribbean ViewCondo - half price summer rental (May-October)
Bikini Beach - A DAY AT THE BEACH
(including 2 chairs and a parasol, 2 welcome punches and $50.00 credit towards food and drink)
Lagoon Pub Crawl - two for one ticket
Skipjack's - $50 off a dinner for two
Select Wine Cellar - Wine tasting and a bottle of wine
Random Wind - Two for one coupon for the Paradise Day Sail
GCBC Watersports - Two for One snorkel trip to Créole Rock
Peg Leg Pub - $50 off a dinner for two
PassportMD - Six months free service

28 December to 1 March 2009
Caribbean ViewCondo - half price summer rental (May-October)
Lagoon Pub Crawl - two for one ticket
Skipjack's - $50 off a dinner for two
Select Wine Cellar - Wine tasting and a bottle of wine
Random Wind - Two for one coupon for the Paradise Day Sail
GCBC Watersports - Two for One snorkel trip to Créole Rock
Peg Leg Pub - $50 off a dinner for two
PassportMD - Six months free service

1 March to 26 April 2009
Caribbean ViewCondo - half price summer rental (May-October)
Lagoon Pub Crawl - two for one ticket
Skipjack's - $50 off a dinner for two
Select Wine Cellar - Wine tasting and a bottle of wine
Random Wind - Two for one coupon for the Paradise Day Sail
GCBC Watersports - Two for One snorkel trip to Créole Rock
Peg Leg Pub - $50 off a dinner for two
PassportMD - Six months free service


RESTAURANTS


On 8 June the euro was at 1.573. Today it is at 1.567. It has been on a wild ride over the last six weeks as the stock market has been roiled with financial news, but when the dust settled, there was hardly any change. We no longer list restaurants offering 1 to 1 on the exchange unless we get recent information. Vanessa at California Restaurant reports that they are still doing 1 to 1 and have added a wifi hotspot. They are open every day 7/7 non-stop from lunch to dinner all the year (no holidays!). They have just done some redecorating and have some sales on clothing in the Zen Attitude Boutique.

Halsey's Restaurant
On the Monday before we left we had our final dinner at Halsey's Restaurant on the lagoon at the bridge in Simpson Bay. We had a bottle of Le Vignée, non-vintage Burgundy from Bouchard. It's well made and inexpensive ($22). It was great with the garlicky olive oil dip that arrives with the sliced baguettes, and it's light enough not to overpower the King Crab Leg appetizer that followed ($19). Our dinners were the Kansas City Strip ($32) and the blackened Mahi ($23). The Strip came with a cognac green peppercorn sauce and homemade onion rings, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and sautéed veg. The mahi arrived with a passionfruit purée, coconut whipped plantains, and grilled pineapple. All good and even with a bottle of water, the bill, before a tip, was about $80. Their motto is "Fine Dining, Unrefined". OK, maybe there are no fine linens, but they do have good service, a good wine list, and even use Tritan wine glasses. It's not the cheapest food in Simpson Bay, but it is very good food at the price.

Don't forget the super happy hour, now on Saturdays. Come relax on Simpson Bay Lagoon amidst the megayachts and experience "The Zen of Happy Hour" Saturdays from 3-5. It's the perfect way to get out of the sun and wind down after a day of shopping on Front Street or a day at the beach. Escape the maddening crowds for a while and enjoy daily Drink Specials including $5 Martinis. The Happy Hour Menu features ever-changing appetizer specials, sushi, and sashimi plates, fresh oysters and mussels.

King Crab Legs

King Crab Legs

Kansas City Strip Steak

Kansas City Strip Steak

Blackened Mahi

Blackened Mahi

Changes: Earlier in the spring Bamboo Bernies was robbed and the owner, Jimmy Goldman, was most unhappy, expressing his unhappiness in the Herald and on TTOL, going so far as to say he was closing his businesses. (There was a short-lived outpost of Bamboo Bernies on the boardwalk, a somewhat longer-lived, but now closed Mambo Sushi in Marigot, and the still functioning Tijuana Yacht Club.) At this point Bamboo Bernies has finally moved to Maho, up on the second floor above Subway and, though quite different, it has opened to good reviews and Tijuana Yacht Club is still there.

The last night for the Kissing Fish was July 13th. Chloe & Thiery are headed for Bali.

Le Bec Fin changed hands just before high season last year and has closed already. I met the new owner and was underwhelmed, so now I am not surprised.


BARGAINS AND HAPPENINGS


  Our condo: It's that time of year. We have returned to our home in NY. Our condo will be available for rent at $1000 per week from 15 April to December 15, $2000 per week during holiday season (20 Dec until 4 Jan), and $1500 per week at other times. The rental includes about $400 in coupons from several of our website clients. Check the calendar on our website for available dates. Hurricane Special: Any days in September and August for $100.

Wine & Cheese Party: Select Wine Cellar and Champagne Snack Bar are hosting a monthly wine and cheese tastings, usually on the first Friday of the month. Send an email to Sylvain for more details or a reservation (highly recommended as these are very popular).

  Island Art and Treasures has gone on-line selling a few originals and lots of prints from island artists. You'll certainly recognize the names of the artists and the scenes that they have captured. The prints are quite affordable. We have the work of several local artists in our condo at Sapphire and even a few here in NY to get us through the summer.

Amazon: Here is what NYTimes columnist Paul Krugman said about the Kindle e-book from Amazon. I'm not convinced it's the best thing to take to a beach, but it sure is a lightweight way to get some of your favorite books to the Caribbean, especially now that the second bag costs $25 or so on most flights!

Orient Village has something similar to Grand Case's Harmony Nights. It's smaller but will happen on Friday nights through August.

 

  And now, another "night" on Orient! This one is a "Thai Curry festival with Live Music a la Christine" at Bikini Beach on Wednesday nights starting on 2 April and will running for six weeks until 7 May. It's 24.50 Euros per person with a choice of Panang, Red, Green or Yellow curry. You get your choice of Vegetarian with Tofu, Chicken, Fish or Beef. Rice and a beverage included. Christine is a lovely blonde songstress with accompaniment du jour. She works with lots of talented musicians on the island and is sure to please just about everyone. Thai Curry starts at 6pm and the music starts at 7pm.

Coupons: Look on the SXM-Info website for a list of all restaurants and others that have coupons for some freebie or discount. There are several coupons there to make your vacation a bit cheaper. Here's a list of what you'll find:

Bikini Beach
Beau Beau's
Escargot
Kakao Beach
Oizeau Rare
Paradise View
Pirate Beach Bar
Tai Chi
Select Wine Cellar
Endless Summer Beachwear
Diamonds International

The Mario's Bistro Cookbook is now available. They are shipped via UPS and cost $49 for one, $87 for two, and $123 for three, delivered. Delivery via UPS should take a day or two in the US.

Sandy Molloy at Molloy Travel offers personalized service to fit your needs and budget.

  Mario's Cookbook

Pool at Esperance   L'Esperance Hotel (left) has great rates and is conveniently located. It's quite handy if you just need a night or two at either end of your vacation because of the wretched flight schedules. They have a lovely pool and offer free wireless internet access.

On the French side, check out California Apartments (right) on the beach in Grand Case. California Restaurant is right downstairs and the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean is at your doorstep. Zuzu, owner of California Apartments and a couple villas on Orient, has written to say "We went to Bali last month and bought a villa there. We will rent it weekly. (photos below right)"

  Beach at California Apartments

View from Sol e Luna   MSN Travel picked Sol é Luna Inn (left) as a low-priced beach resort. It's a 10 minute drive from Orient, but directly above one of the best restaurants on the island.   Entrance Pool

A three night Labor Day weekend package at La Samanna starts at $995.00 (subject to 5% government tax) in an Ocean View room, including breakfast buffet, welcome bottle of champagne, and a car rental for the day (tax, gas and insurance not included). Enjoy spacious One Bedroom Suite accommodations for just $100.00 more per night. We stayed there for our anniversary a couple years ago and even though our condo has great views of the Caribbean and several islands from six floors up, there is nothing like being a bit closer to the crashing waves with a similar view.